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On her instigation, the Breton became a symbol of haute bourgeois loveliness during the pre war Riviera years. After the war, it took on a more provocative edge: worn by gamine New Wave heroines, Jean Seberg and Jeanne Moreau, the Breton top channelled androgynous cool, while on sirens like Bardot, it took on a duskier, more sexualised tone. Even the boys were at it: Jean Paul Sartre and Pablo Picasso took over from the fishermen as the faces of the Breton top, and Jean Paul Gaultier and Marc Jacobs have taken up their mantle. After cheese and Truffaut, the signature stripes became one of France's most ubiquitous exports.

Last year, our relationship with fast fashion began to sour. Not only is it ethically iffy, it also makes looking individual almost impossible. If you can't afford to start buying big designer labels, then finding niche, mid priced designers where a dress is about 300 is a good alternative, and it's a rapidly growing area.

16, 2011"When I see a new handbag or pair of shoes, I immediately think of a particular client and I'll call them," McPheters said. "I'll tell them we just got this new piece in and they have to come in and try it. They like knowing that there's somebody watching out for them."

At their first event last spring, women consigned labels such as Citizens of Humanity, BCBG, Dolce Vita, Free People, French Connection, Loveappela, Lucky and Theory. Along with designer premium denim labels 7 For All Mankind, Rich Skinny, Paige Denim and Joe's Jeans and many items from JCrew, Anthropologie and Banana Republic.

"As the economy grew, we underserved our customers by not being able to expand our product offering along with their appetite," says Caryn Lerner, Holt Renfrew's president and chief executive officer. counterpart: a dramatic atrium at the centre, natural light streaming in, pristine floors. Many on opening day, though, thought that it also outshined the West Coast outlet. "It's much better than the Vancouver store," some could be heard whispering.

"During the international fashion weeks, we see immediate responses from clients about the collections," says Selfridges' client services manager, James Servini. "We can receive enquiries as soon as a day after a show. It's mostly a very fashion savvy customer who will be interested somebody who has an intuitive sense of which looks define the coming season. They're extremely sure of how they want to dress, and particularly passionate about 'newness'."

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